Thailand
Report
John Mitchell
When my wife Ann
Marie and I left Leelanau nearly three weeks ago, I was suffering from an
extreme case of sensory underload, bouncing off the walls of our spacious Omena
home as if it were a six-by-nine-foot prison cell. We were heading for Bangkok,
Thailand, where eight months ago our youngest son Drew landed a job as an
English teacher in one of the country’s best universities. I was praying for an
adventure vacation, one that would stimulate and recharge my imagination before
settling into a winter of writing. As the old saying goes, “Be careful what you
wish for.”
On the morning of
December 2nd, the lead story in the Bangkok Post read: “Parts of
inner Bangkok were yesterday plunged into chaos as anti-government protesters
tried to seize key state offices but faced strong resistance from police.
Protesters tried to seize the offices since the morning but by evening had
still not pushed through the barriers erected by police, who fired tear gas and
water cannon. ”
For three years,
while writing my most recent book, Grand Traverse The Civil War Era, I
studied the escalating violence that led to catastrophic war in mid-19th
century America, and I followed this work with my regular Civil War column in
the Leelanau Enterprise;
however, it is one thing to document a civil war in the distant past, quite
another to face civil unrest live and halfway around the world from home.
The scenario here in
Thailand seems altogether surreal. We are thoroughly enjoying the beautiful and
historic country of Thailand and the proud and friendly people who have
embraced my son and given him meaningful work. The pace and crush of humanity
in Bangkok makes New York City seem tranquil, but I have yet to see a single
scrap of paper or spray of graffiti anywhere on the metro system. Dare I
mention that the night/day temperatures ranges from 70 to 85 degrees, the
ancient temples and palaces are inspiring, the food is outstanding, and the
daily, hour-long massages Ann Marie and I are enjoying cost only $6 to $9? But
the potential gravity of the situation struck home when Drew, who had been
downplaying the downward spiral of events, accepted an envelope I handed him
containing Thai baht and US dollars, just in case.
Ongoing Thai
newspaper editorials addressing the country’s comparatively new experiment in
democracy often refer to our 237-year-old nation as the world’s best example of
government by the people, where unpopular leaders lose elections but are not
overthrown. Though we are certainly suffering through a terribly divisive time
back in the States, almost all of us accept the concept of change through the
ballot box rather than the mob. I hoped that sentiment would prevail here in
Thailand, too.
On December 3, Ann
Marie and I both flew out of Bangkok, she on her scheduled day-long fight back
home, I to the northern city of Chiang Mai to pursue leads on a story I am
writing and to attend a noted Thai cooking school. Before she left, Ann Marie
transferred enough money to Drew’s credit card should he need to book a flight
to join me in Chiang Mai -- again, just in case.
I spent most of the
day preparing for an interview with 86-year-old Thai art collector James E.
Bogle, an American who stayed on in Bangkok after his service in the Korean War
and built a distinguished career as a Southeast Asia city planner. Bogle is one of the last surviving
friends of another American expatriate named Jim Thompson, a hero in Thailand,
who is credited with rebuilding the country’s silk industry after World War II.
Thompson’s mysterious disappearance in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia in
1967 is still unsolved, and my three-hour conversation with Bogle shed light on
that event, which I’ll cover in my upcoming book of nonfiction short stories.
I didn’t catch the
news until late that evening, by which time the tide of events in Thailand had
turned for the better. The police
had torn down their own barriers and welcomed the demonstrators into various
government compounds, instantly diffusing the escalating violence. There were pictures
of demonstrators and police laughing, embracing, and sharing tea together. As the lead story in the December 4th
Bangkok Post explained:
The upcoming celebrations for His Majesty the King’s birthday are behind the Metropolitan Police Bureau’s decision to allow anti-government into their headquarters and Government House. The military asked the government to allow protesters inside as a symbolic gesture to end the violence.
The military was keen to avoid clashes during the King’s birthday tomorrow. Police Lt. General Kamronwit said he had been summoned for an audience with a royal family member at the palace. He was told Thais must not fight each other.
The long-serving
King is revered in Thailand, wielding influence of the kind George Washington would
have if he were to reappear in the present and ask Americans to behave in a
certain way. Drew told us a story of a friend visiting from the States who
dropped a coin on a busy sidewalk, and as it began to roll away on its edge,
stomped on it with his foot in order to stop it. Thais who witnessed the scene
gasped in horror and disbelief, for one side of the coin featured a bust of the
King.
Fathers Day in
Thailand is a moveable feast pegged to the King’s birthday, which is today,
December 5th. My Fathers
Day present this year is the truce and at least a day of peace on the streets
and the knowledge my son won’t be compelled by events to join me today in
Chiang Mai.
As I advance in age,
I sometimes have fleeting doubts as to whether the fortune I have spent on
travel over a lifetime would have been better put aside for retirement, but
just as quickly I answer myself, “No way.” If my last words turn out to be
“paper or plastic,” so be it, for every time I experience other countries and
their distinct cultures I am awed by the beauty and diversity of our world.
Never has that been truer than on this rollercoaster ride of a month-long- trip
to Thailand. As a bonus, the more I see of the world, the more I am convinced
there is no better place on the planet to live than Leelanau County, Michigan,
USA.
- John Mitchell,
12/5/2013
[John Mitchell's most recent book is a best-selling northern Michigan work of history, Grand Traverse: The Civil War Era.]
2 comments:
Wow. That wad really interesting. And made me realize how little I understsnd about the world.
My husband follows news on the radio on an almost hourly basis, so he had heard a lot about the latest from Thailand, but it was all news to me, and I liked having John's personal take on it, too.
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